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Glycerol stearate is a natural fatty compound often used as an emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, emollient, moisturizer and viscosity builder in creams and lotions. It is also used as an opacifying and pearlizing agent in cosmetics. Glycerol stearate can be of plant origin (corn-based), animal source or synthetic and is considered to be biodegradable, practically non-toxic orally and causes no skin and minimal eye irritation. It is dispersible in water and is also soluble in oil and alcohol, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetics. Glycerol monostearate (GMS) is also used as an ingredient in cosmetics as well as in food products. In a clinical trial with over 1,200 patients with eczema, glycerol monostearate was found to produce absolutely no adverse reactions in a test of common emulsifiers (all other emulsifiers tested did cause adverse reactions in a significant percentage of patients). It is used to keep bakery goods fresh, improve flour quality, and as an emulsifying and whopping agent for ready-to-eat products. It is also used in ice cream formulations, starch products, milk products, chewing gum, chocolates and other foods. It also serves as a softer in textiles and as an external lubricant for plastics. Another form of this chemical often used in cosmetics is glycerol monohydroxystearate, an off-white wax with physical properties similar to beeswax. It provides the functional characteristics of glycerol stearate and enhanced properties such as improved emulsion stability, bodying and thickening properties and greater dispersability of colorants and active materials. Semi-synthetic forms of glycerol stearate often use stearic acid isolated from palm oil as a starting material, another waxy fatty acid widely used in cosmetics and soap. The glycerol component of glycerol stearate can be from beef fat, petroleum, or vegetable source and is itself used as a solvent and humectant (maintains the desired moisture level).
Ref: Herb and Supplement Encyclopedia, Flora Heath
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